My 1984 BMW has been in he garage for 5 years, Runs fine but when I tried to move him, his wheels won’t turn. How can I get them to turn?
The brake shoes have rusted to the drums or rotors. This can be very hard to overcome. Try dragging it out with another vehicle and be careful not to connect the tow chain to anything that will bend (like bumper) – go for a frame connection. If that does not work (probably won’t) you will have to jack the car up and remove all the wheels. Then you will have to try a couple of approaches.
1. Try whacking the drum with a heavy wooden or rubber mallet. NOT iron. This may loosen things up.
2. Try heating the outside of the drum up with a torch, letting it cool, heating again, letting it cool and then whacking with the wooden mallet. Do NOT use heat at the top of the drum where the wheel cylinder is.
3. If the front rotors are stuck you should be able to pry them apart with a screw drive or brass wedge that you jam in between the rotor and the brake pad. If you don’t use brass plan on replacing the rotors, pads, and possibly the caliper too.
Good luck, it is going to be a PIA no matter what…
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
Check power steering fluid.
References :
It just sounds to me like you need some WD40. Be more spesific on the problem. Is there a lot of rust? Is there a problem with the axal?
References :
Probably just rust on the drums and rotors. Take each tire off and inspect each axle. You will most certainly find the rear wheels are tight, not the front. Also it is very common for a parking brake (if it was set) to rust tight. There may be a steel cable that is routed under the body and actuates the parking brake so take a look there first. Loose the brake lever. A little spray lube and a small hammer to tap any sliding joints should fix that up easy. My bet is the parking brake cable rusted. Also tap the rear wheels where the cable activates the brakes. Do NOT get any spray lube on the actual friction material.
References :
is it an automatic or manual transmission? if its auto check the transmission oil might be low, and if its a manual you might need a clutch. and if you really want to get it to move you can always push it..lol
References :
Take the wheels off, lubricate EVERYTHING YOU CAN POSSIBLY GET TOO, INCLUDING THE BRAKE PADS AND SHOES (DON’T WORRY, THEY’LL WORK AGAIN), JUST LUBE THE SHEEIT OUT OF EVERY CRACK AND SPACE AND PUT THE WHEELS BACK ON. Now try it….. Rev it up in first gear, is the parking brake stuck on? Check that, that’s common, if it is, put the handle down, take off the rear wheels, lube THAT PART up, and put the wheels back on. Rev it up, 1st gear and try not to burn up your clutch, but IT WILL MOVE, GOT WILLING. I promise you that, and when you get it moving, THEN WORRY ABOUT THE FACT THAT YOU MIGHT NEED NEW BEARINGS. got it? -john in Iowa
References :
Sounds like your wheel bearings rusted together. Replace them and you’ll be rolling.
References :
It sounds like the car was stored with the parking brake
on, Try working it quite a few times. It could be rusted in
position in which you may need to remove the wheels and
get a closer look.
If you do attempt to give it gas and it let’s loose, just be sure
you’re not going to run anyone or anything over. Forward and
Reverse…
Good Luck to you
References :
The brake shoes have rusted to the drums or rotors. This can be very hard to overcome. Try dragging it out with another vehicle and be careful not to connect the tow chain to anything that will bend (like bumper) – go for a frame connection. If that does not work (probably won’t) you will have to jack the car up and remove all the wheels. Then you will have to try a couple of approaches.
1. Try whacking the drum with a heavy wooden or rubber mallet. NOT iron. This may loosen things up.
2. Try heating the outside of the drum up with a torch, letting it cool, heating again, letting it cool and then whacking with the wooden mallet. Do NOT use heat at the top of the drum where the wheel cylinder is.
3. If the front rotors are stuck you should be able to pry them apart with a screw drive or brass wedge that you jam in between the rotor and the brake pad. If you don’t use brass plan on replacing the rotors, pads, and possibly the caliper too.
Good luck, it is going to be a PIA no matter what…
References :
You most like live where is damp at night and hot during day. Most likely you have brake shoes with metal in them. The pad and shoes will rust together. Do not use any oil on the brake shoes. If you do you will hap to replace them. Jack the back wheels off the ground. Remove the wheels. You will have a drum and rotor on some model. The E Brake shoes are in the center below the rotor part. Behind where lug nuts goes on. Make sure the E-brake is off inside the vehicle. This will do no good if it is on. Take hamper and tape the drum part. you may hear a pop when the E- brake lets goes. With a big screw on the capillary, Try to open it a little and see if the rotor is loose to turn. With plan drum brake it is a matter of hitting the drum with a hammer. On the area facing you, Not on the area that is flat to you no top. This will crack the rotor. With rotor type.without the drum, Take a heavy screw drive and type open the pads from the rotor. The E-brake on this set up use the service brake as the E-brake. It is on a screw out system that you cannot push in so far.Since this car has been setting so long, the capillary may had freeze up. The fix here is rebuilt or replace . It’s a good rule to do both side to have the same braking respond time. Before you put this car back on the road, I would have a complete inspection of the braking system. Rubble parts do eaten up with brake fluid if they are not used. And will fail at the time you need them. Brake hose dry rot over time.
References :
ASE Master Mechanic
Leave a Comment